Men's
Underwear
history :: styles :: brands
Men's Underwear History
Egyptians
The remnants of leather loincloths have been found with the remains of
pre-historic man living 7,000 years ago. The loincloth is the simplest
and probably the first undergarment worn by human beings, alone in
warmer climates and covered by other garments in colder. The Egyptians
of the 2nd millenium B.C. used fabric to form an undergarment over which
they wore a skirt. In tombs of the pharaohs supplies for further use
after death were buried with them.
The
Ancient Greeks dressed very simply with a 'chiton', an oblong of woolen
cloth large enough to wrap around the body from the neck down to just
above the knees. The side left open was fastened by a 'fibulae' a pin
or brooch. A girdle was worn round it and the 'chiton' could by pulled
through it and worn high by those who were physically active and left
long by the older gentlemen. Over this was worn the 'himation', an outer
cloak. Slaves wore loincloths. However, the ancient Greeks did not wear
underwear.
Around the 13th
century, pull-on underpants were invented and underwear became an
important garment. The loincloth was replaced by large, baggy drawers
called 'braies', which were often made from linen and seem to be worn by
men from all classes of society under their normal clothing. Knights
wore 'braies' under several layers of clothing topped by their armor.
The wearer stepped into them and then laced or tied them around the
waist and legs at about mid-calf. We know what they look like from
illuminations of hot field-workers dispensing with all their clothes
other than their braies for modesty and coolness. Wealthier men often
wore chausses as well, which only covered the legs. In Europe
underwear played an important role in shaping outerwear. Items for men
developed during this time and included corsets, cod pieces, stockings,
undershirts and drawers.
By the Renaissance, the 'chausses' became form fitting
like modern hose, and the braies became shorter to accommodate longer
styles of chausses. However, chausses and many braies designs were not
intended to be covered up by other clothing, so they are not actually
underwear in the strictest sense. Braies were usually fitted with a flap
in the front that buttoned or tied closed. This codpiece allowed men to
urinate without having to remove the braies completely. At first, the
codpiece was entirely a practical matter of modesty. Men's hose were
typically very snug on the legs and open at the crotch, with the
genitalia simply hanging loose under the doublet. A shortening of the
doublet resulted in often-exposed genitalia, so the codpiece came into
being. As time passed, codpieces were shaped to emphasize the male
genitalia and eventually often became padded and bizarrely shaped. Henry
VIII of England began padding his own codpiece, which caused a spiraling
trend of larger and larger codpieces that only ended by the end of the
16th Century. They also often doubled as pockets, handy carrying places
for a variety of items. The modern men's shirt appeared during
this era, but it was originally an undergarment. Renaissance noblemen
also adopted the doublet, a vest-like garment tied together in the front
and worn under other clothing.
In
Victorian times men's undergarments were in two pieces and all
undergarments were made by hand. Materials used were cotton through
linen and even silk. In America, before the Civil War, from the waist
down "drawers" were worn which were usually made of wool flannel, but
could be of any fabric. The most common were knee length with a simple
button overlap in front and a drawstring at the waist in the back. The
preferred upper garment was a wool flannel shirt worn next to the
skin. The Industrial Revolution with the invention of
water-powered spinning machines and the ¹cotton gin¹ made cotton fabrics
widely available and saw the beginning of mass-produced underwear. For
the first time, people began buying undergarments in stores rather than
making them at home. The standard undergarment of this period for men,
women, and children was the Ounion suit¹, which provided coverage from
the wrists to the ankles. The union suits of the era were usually made
of knitted material and included a drop flap in the back to ease visits
to the toilet. Because the top and bottom were united as a one-piece
garment it received the name Ounion suit¹. Hanes opened several mills
producing 'union suits'. Originally made with ankle length legs and long
sleeves, later versions were available in knee length versions with or
without sleeves.The name 'Long Johns', long skin-tight
underpants, was actually first used for the long underwear issued to
American soldiers during World War Two. The name is derived from the old
boxing gear worn by John L. Sullivan, who was a boxer in the late 1880s,
the height of his career being 1882-92.
In
the 1930s, union suits went out of favor and boxers and briefs became
the 'vogue'. The 1930s saw another major innovation, that is easy
elastic waists replaced button, snap, and tie closures. At around this
time companies began selling buttonless drawers fitted with an elastic
waistband, which were the first true boxer shorts. The name is derived
from the shorts worn by professional fighters. The word "underpants"
also entered the dictionary.
'Jockey' began making briefs in 1930 but it was not until 1934 with
the advent of 'Jockey' Y-vent briefs that the design of men¹s underwear
made a leap forward. It was the first time an easy-to-use diagonal vent
was applied to boxers and briefs. Today one can buy jockey shorts which
are knit fabric, with access pouch or flap, usually at or near true
waist, leg bands at tops of thighs. Traditional high and lox cut jockey
shorts have vertical flaps or diagonal flaps. In 1936 OMunsingwear¹
developed the 'kangeroo pouch' underwear which used a horizontal vent.
During the Second World War there was
a difficulty in obtaining underwear as the first priority were troops
abroad. Also there was a shortage of rubber and metal, and button
fasteners were again used. For the first time color was used for
underwear; soldiers were issued with drab-olive briefs for safety, as
white briefs were too conspicuous when being hung up to dry. The
preferred undergarments of this period were knit briefs, broadcloth
shorts with buttons, and the union suit. Designs incorporated French
backs, that is a design with small tabs at the rear of the waistband,
usually secured by buttons, for adjusting the size and fit at the waist,
and tie-sides.
At war's end,
Jockey and Hanes remained the industry leaders. Also at the end of the
war a preshrinking process called Sanforization came to be used. Prior
to this one had to buy underwear a size larger to allow for shrinkage in
the wash.
After
the Second World War underwear continued to change significantly helping
create the shape and the look for the outer clothes we wear. In 1947
came the introduction of nylon tricot, as well as men's stretch briefs,
and in 1950 the first T-shirts with nylon-reinforced neckbands to
prevent sagging were introduced.
From the 1950s design in underwear
became more innovative and exciting with the introduction of color and
pattern. Underwear began to be a fashion statement. New fabrics were
introduced such as rayon, Dacron and DuPont nylon. Nylon tricot briefs
were made in a multitude of colors. By the 1960s boxer shorts were
decorated with every type of 'fun' image and a bikini type underwear was
introduced using animal prints. However, white cotton underwear was
still the major seller.
New
fabric technology continued to offer better comfort in men's underwear,
particularly with the introduction of Lycra and Spandex.
In
the 1960s in Italy Peppino Gheduzzi realized the importance of
elasticity in fabrics used in men's underwear to improve comfort (close
- fitting - support). He proposed the idea to Du Pont and subsequently
the first product in Lycra Cotton was realized. Spandex was created in
the late 1950s and developed by Du Pont, but the first commercial
production of Spandex fiber in the United States began in 1959.
Underwear became smaller with far more variety designed for specific age
groups and purposes.

In
the 1970s and 1980s the new 'designer' underwear producers as Calvin
Klein, Sauvage, Ron Chereskin, Tommy Hilfiger, 2(x)ist, as well as
Jockey, used 'sex' as the main selling point for major advertising
campaigns. Briefs got briefer and great design, unusual fabrics,
wonderful colors and combinations, and great variety of choice made for
underwear becoming a 'fashion' item. Today you can get underwear for
sports, casual, romance, figure enhancement, warmth (thermals), humor,
and with dual purposes such as the inclusion of pockets. Also, like the
women's designs, the newest and hottest styles are almost totally
seamless.
The modern
sexualization of underwear has started one more curious trend: not
wearing underwear at all. This practice is known in slang as freeballing
(or freebuffing for females); going commando (a term popularized by the
TV show OFriends)¹ is also used for both sexes. This trend only
emphasizes how far underwear has come from its beginnings as a hygienic
aide. When modern people bathe every day, underwear is not nearly as
necessary, and with underwear as the final barrier to sex, not wearing
it at all is a powerful turn-on for many people. Traditionally a kilt is
worn without underpants.
Underwear Styles

Briefs:
The dominant style of men's underwear, famous for it's
fly-front and stretchy fabric which helps keep everything in it's place.

Boxer Briefs: In
the 1990s, retailers started selling boxer briefs, which take the longer
shape of boxers but maintain the tightness of briefs. Though marketed as
a new design, these are actually quite similar to the bottom half of the
two-part union suits worn in the 1910s. Boxer style are at or near true
waist, leg sections extending to thighs) . They can be woven boxers
(traditional) or knit boxers (like traditional but with more fabric
give) . Boxer briefs ere also knit and more form-fitting . Pouch boxer
briefs have a pouch for genitals rather than access flap and athletic
and bike-style boxers are generally skin-tight, usually with no access
pouch or flap, like short tights

Bikinis: The
'bikini' was invented in 1946 by two Frenchmen, Jacques Heim and Louis
Reard, who named it after the Bikini Atoll in the Marshall Islands, the
site of atomic bomb testing, because the 2-piece swimsuit was miniscule
in size. The name became popular for both men and women¹s briefs. Bikini
briefs can be low or high-side bikini briefs but are usually lower than
true waist, often at hips, and usually have no access pouch or flap,
legs bands at tops of thighs. String bikini briefs, another style have
front and rear sections meet in the crotch but not at the waistband,
with no fabric on the side of the legs.

Thongs & G Strings:
Men in ancient cultures wore thong-like items for ease and comfort. The
thong was very popular in South America, particularly in Brazil, since
the 1980s and was used on the beaches as swimwear by both men and women.
Even prior to this 'exotic dancers' were thongs. But at that time you
could not wear thong swimsuits on the U.S. beaches and the fashion was
slow to catch on. Nowadays the thong has become popular as underwear not
only for its erotic appeal, but its use has the ability to give a smooth
and rounded finish to the bottom, particularly for wear under tight
trousers. Current styles:
G-string
have a front pouch for the genitals but no rear coverage.
Thongs have a strap securing the pouch at the bottom rear, passing
up the crack between the buttocks to the waistband.
Athletic
supporters use two straps securing the pouch at the bottom rear,
passing around the bases of the buttocks up to the waistband at the
sides.
Strapless pouches have a front pouch and waistband only with no
securing straps.
Men's Underwear Brands:
2xist Joseph Abboud 3G
Junk Food ActiveMan
Lee Adam Levi's Adidas Alfani
Life is Good Andrew Christian
Magic Silk AussieBum
Male Power Baskit Mansilk BIKE
Mundo Unico Billabong
Munsingwear Bjorn Borg
Nautica C-IN2 Nearly
Me Calvin Klein Obviously For Men
Champion PPU Clever
Papi Contour Piado D
& G Pikante DKNY
Pistol Pete DMK Play
Players De Soto
Polo Ralph Lauren Diesel Priape Wear
Dietz Puma Dolce & Gabbana Punta Blanco RIPS
Duofold Ed Hardy Rufskin Element
Russell Element(o)s Safe-T-Gard Eminence
Schiesser Emporio Armani Score Ex
Officio Sean John Fruit of the Loom
Shape Enhancer Gigo Sloggi Ginch
Gonch Speedo Axcelerate Giulio
Steven Go Softwear Tactics Ted
Baker Gregg Homme Grigioperla Tommy
Hilfiger Hanes
Triple XXX by Unico Hanro Tulio HOM
Under Armour Hugo Boss
Versace James Perse Jockey WAX Jocko
XTG Joe Boxer Zack and Zula Joe Snyder
Zimmerli Zoot